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When compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. Yet, nestled high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small place achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary achievement.